Betsy’s Pancake House is the kind of breakfast and lunch counter frequented by tradesmen and the President of the United States. Betsy has since passed away, R.I.P. The restaurant opens at 5:30 AM, before the sun comes up. As I write this at 5:48 AM, there are three policemen, a plumber, two linemen, a secretary, and Pablo, who is in the corner doing hi…